此次歐行腿來到瑞典 Abisko 追極光的行程，我全權交由 Lapland Trip 北極秘境之旅的 Frank 來安排，讓出發前 10 天才決定成行的我也樂得省去這四天三夜要做什麼的煩憂，畢竟到了北極圈內最大的目的就是『看極光』嘛，以致於當行程表上出現「納爾維克一日遊」的項目時，即便我對這名詞感到陌生，卻也瀟灑的沒有任何疑惑…
Then Frank told us, “Tomorrow we are going to Norway!” “What? We are going to Norway?”
原以為瑞典就是我唯一的目的地，沒想到恍恍惚惚地，我就這樣不小心踏上了挪威的土地，還見到地理課本中令人印象深刻（因為必考）的超美峽灣景色，一路飽覽白雪大地、俯瞰 Narvik 納爾維克的可愛小鎮，更一嚐傳說中的北海海鮮！
（此照片由人好照拍得更好的 Frank 拍攝提供）
Narvik 小鎮位於挪威北方的諾爾蘭郡，距離 Abisko 相當近，只需要約兩小時的車程就可以從我們居住的民宿抵達，雖然一樣是在北極圈內，不過長在挪威的 Narvik 因為靠海、有墨西哥暖流的調節，比起 Abisko 還更溫暖一點，峽灣還成為了終年不會結冰的不凍港；即便中間停留的一些小景點因為風大而非常凍，但拍拍照很快又可以回到車上解凍，我們甚至連民宿給的專業連身雪衣都沒有穿上，就平安度過這天了（阿密陀佛阿門）。
[ 瑞典 Abisko 阿比斯庫與挪威 Narvik 納爾維克相當近 ]
Narvik is also an important northern port, and its history is tied to Sweden. Sweden developed the iron mines at Kiruna but lacked a nearby port for export, so a Swedish company built a railway to Narvik and used its ice-free harbour. The railway helped Narvik grow. If you visit Kiruna or Abisko, you can take the train to Narvik and continue travelling through Norway.
而我們則是參加 Narvik Trip 一日來回 Abisko 的行程，由 Abisko Guesthouse 開車出團，一趟旅程就包含了戰爭紀念碑認識歷史、峽灣觀景台、身處峽灣中的海邊、魚市場、Sky Bar 俯瞰全鎮的觀景台、和停留於吃午餐的 shopping center。
（此照片由 Lapland Trip 北極秘境之旅的 Frank 拍攝提供）
We left in half-light, though it was already nine o’clock. A little red glow made the sky beautiful. In the short days and long nights of the Arctic Circle, sunrise is easy to catch without getting up early; the trick is to treasure every golden hour and finish the itinerary before darkness.
It was nearly −30°C outside when we set off. The car heater made me want to hibernate, but the view outside was too beautiful to stop watching. Under the snow, everything looked especially clean and pure.
[ 冬天的北極圈，不可思議的是即使都是雪白，卻仍然有層次 ]
[ 瑞典的湖邊已經從邊緣開始在結冰了 ]
「麋鹿！！！」讓我想起在澳洲的公路上，不時會有牛呀羊呀甚至袋鼠竄出，而在瑞典北極圈內則是麋鹿，超可愛的～
在瑞典的這些麋鹿都有人眷養統一管理，多是由當地的少數民族薩米人飼養，每年的宰殺數量也受到瑞典政府控制，不會因為捕食而失去生態平衡。
[ 這奔馳的姿態都會聯想到聖誕老公公 ]
[ 其實麋鹿還蠻怕人的，一有人車靠近都逃得很快 ]
Soon the car stopped at a valley blanketed in white. The endless landscape—snow, and more snow—was overwhelming. In heavy snow boots, with only wild wind and the tiny squeak of friction underfoot, one careless step could sink into the snow or break through a crust of ice.
[ 其實這裡冷到有點快瘋掉，回車上後都狂用雪芙蘭擦凍傷的臉和手 ]
[ 像極了中國水墨畫，黑白分明 ]
[ 那就置身在畫裡吧 ]（此照片由台灣好青年 Frank 拍攝提供）
[ 陸地上的如履薄冰大概就是這樣 ]
這片雪也透露出北歐美學的氛圍吧！「極簡留白」，在雪白的北極圈中，自己的呼吸聲與腳步聲顯得特別清楚，我們只需要聽著自己的聲音，不斷向前就好。
第二站停在一處景色遼闊的戰爭紀念碑前，Narvik 在二戰時曾經被德軍佔領，發生驚心動魄的納爾維克海戰（想看詳細故事請見台灣 WIKI ），當時希特勒軍團到達極地時為了建造公路而俘虜了當地居民，不僅不能吃東西也不能休息，而德軍就站在這山頭上，當這些居民沒有體力再工作下去，就會在這裡直接被槍殺掉，而我們所在的紀念碑附近，白雪覆蓋下還遺留不少槍林彈孔的痕跡，蓋得住外表、卻蓋不了這心碎的歷史傷痛。
[ 記錄著沉重歷史的戰爭紀念碑 ]
[ 然而這裡也是視野很好的眺望點 ]
[ 拍個照一樣會被風吹的去跳台客舞 ]
一路旅行，曾經我也是那為了追求經典景點而奔波的遊客，但隨著時間沖刷記憶，最深刻的故事卻總是那些路途上的體驗和遇見的人，一點一滴的灌注生命養分，於是我知道，路上經歷的過程更勝於抵達的意義。
[ 停下腳步休息一下也不錯 ]
A fjord landscape began appearing beside the road. In geography class, Europe’s many countries, mountains, rivers, and landforms tangled my head; I memorised them for exams and forgot everything the next day. I never imagined I would stand inside that map, see a fjord with my own eyes, and never confuse it again. I will remember it for life.
[ 路旁開始出現峽灣的美景 ]
Because warm currents enter the fjord—and perhaps because the fjord walls shelter it—the beaches were strangely free of snow even while the road was buried. It felt much warmer. We touched the water of the ice-free port: cold, but not swear-worthy, and enjoyed the fjord beneath a pink sky.
（此照片由 Lapland Trip 北極秘境之旅的 Frank 拍攝提供）
（此團體照片由 Lapland Trip 北極秘境之旅的 Frank 拍攝提供）
We also saw frozen waterfalls along the road. For one loud, tumbling instant, each looked as if someone had pressed pause, leaving it there until spring returned.
The car gradually entered Narvik. By Norwegian standards it is a small city, but it was my first introduction to Norway. Cute houses climbed the hills and lined the coast. It was extremely cute.
We stopped at the fish market to buy fresh seafood and take it back to Abisko for a North Sea feast. (I was not cooking; tonight’s chef was the kind and talented Frank, who made a whole table of food and is absolutely marriage material.) We also bought a Norwegian packet of shredded squid for drinks. It was incredibly tough and strongly fishy, yet everyone somehow finished it.
[ 魚肝等內臟，在 Frank 的巧手料理後都超好吃的 ]
[ 其實就是在拍挪威電眼魚市場帥哥（在台灣就會上新聞了『漁市哥』） ]
[ 挪威版魷魚絲，一包相當於台幣 480 元左右 ]
挪威的貨幣匯率與瑞典差不多，不過因為是完全不同的貨幣而無法通用，因此在挪威的這天我們都用刷卡度過；而挪威的語言與瑞典話相似卻又相異，通常彼此可以聽得懂、但卻不一定講得出對方的語言，就像西班牙話與葡萄牙話間的奧妙，令人感受到這兩個國家緊密的文化關聯。
接著來到 Narvik 的最佳觀景臺 － Sky Bar，從高處一覽整個納爾維克小鎮的景色，還能遠眺至峽灣，對於這種可愛的小房子我真是毫無抵抗力呀！
Eating out in Scandinavia requires a tight grip on your wallet. Frank warned us that lunch would be in Norway and suggested bringing food if we wanted to save money. At a conveyor-belt sushi restaurant in a shopping centre, I stepped inside suspiciously: “Why did I come to Norway to eat sushi?”
But plate after plate arrived. The sushi was made with North Sea salmon and fresh seafood. To us it was creative cuisine: avocado sushi, fried sushi, mango sushi… unusual and delicious, and perhaps worth bringing back to Taiwan. Even at local prices, each bite was not cheap—a small piece cost more than NT$150 (about US$5)—but we had come to Norway, so we tried Norwegian seafood in an East Asian style.
[ 一樣看盤子顏色來算價錢，上面的數字換算台幣可通通要乘上四倍呀！！！ ]
完食後我們有二十分鐘的活動時間，來到一個國家最想做的是什麼呢？「逛超市！」而且「要買酒」，嚐嚐各國不同的酒、從超市內窺探這國家的飲食文化，成為每次必做的事，短短幾十分鐘的時間我們就到壽司吧的 Shopping Center 樓下，衝入挪威的超市內選購啤酒，每一瓶的貼標都很美令人不知道該如何選擇，最後帶走充滿冰山感的 LOFOTPILS 為晚上配上魷魚絲。
We headed back before sunset—meaning three in the afternoon. A beautiful purple-red gradient filled the sky. Every day in the Arctic felt dreamlike and unreal.
從挪威再度回到瑞典，帶著好用的台灣護照，不用特別申請的申根簽證，就可以在兩小時內從一個國家到達另一個國境，感受不同的人文與景色，無非是在歐洲旅行最迷人也最有趣的地方了。
[ 這天海關都沒有上班，不知不覺就跨越國境回到瑞典 ]
Narvik 小鎮或許無法代表整個挪威，但它就是我想像中的挪威，壯麗卻又可愛。來到 Abisko 看極光，順道來看看挪威的美吧！
>> 納爾維克一日行程資訊請參考 Lapland Trip
啊呀～一不小心就來到挪威了！瑞典北方的 Abisko 離挪威相當近，一個白天的時間就能來回挪威納爾維克小鎮（而且這裡的白天還很短），真是太不小心就多來到一個國家了呀！哈哈哈身在挪威特色的不凍港，被峽灣環環包圍，看著可愛的小房子沿著山…
Posted by Creya！可以呀 – 在生活中旅行 on Thursday, January 7, 2016
✈ 旅行時間：2016/1/6
| 看我歐行腿 | 瑞典追極光 系列文章：(旅行期間：2015/12/30-2016/1/10)
● 天外飛來一道極光！我在瑞典北極圈迎接 2016 的精彩
● 行李拎了就走，十天後出發瑞典北極圈追極光！自助規劃不是夢報導
● 原來愛斯基摩人也不是好當的，在 Igloo 圓頂雪屋裡睡一宿
● 闖入瑞典零下世界的雪累史，極地生存指南：我的雪中裝備與器材提醒
● 再冷，也要到瑞典北極圈 Abisko 看三晚極光盛宴
● 混入瑞典斯德哥爾摩的維京人餐廳 AIFUR RESTAURANT & BAR 當一晚海盜
● 阿呀～一不小心就從瑞典到了挪威， Narvik 小鎮遇見地理課本中的峽灣
● 美到搶著入冰宮，躺在用冰打造的瑞典北極圈 ICE HOTEL 裡
● 斯德哥爾摩的 ICEBAR 冰造酒吧，奇妙緣份與萍水相逢的台灣鄉親破冰共飲
● 謝謝沒有放棄的自己，讓我用跑步遇見斯德哥爾摩的城市森林秘境
● 只載去見周公的飛機，瑞典斯德哥爾摩機場旁的 Jumbo Stay 特色青年旅館
