As a Taiwanese bumpkin whose fingers start itching whenever I spot a cheap flight—and who promptly scatters every cent of her salary overseas—I’m shamelessly unfamiliar with Taiwan, the place where I was born and raised (perhapsI could tell you more about Melbourne, Australia,which is frankly embarrassing). And so,after wandering all over the world, one of my biggest travel dreams has become spending some time exploring Taiwan.After all, as the saying goes, “Old ginger is best, and Taiwan is the best homeland.” These Taiwanese feet are destined to follow me for life, so how could I not get properly acquainted with the island beneath them?
Unfortunately, the run-up to another long journey is always hectic. Just then, two friends from my Australian working-holiday days invited me, one after the other, to meet them in Tainan. Since I didn’t have enough time for a full trip around Taiwan, athree-day, two-night trip to Tainanwould at least soothe my travel-starved soul.
So, two weeks before leaving for New Zealand, I boarded a coach as if I were heading abroad—carefully calculating both time and money and choosing an early-out, late-back schedule.I travelled from Taipei to Tainan and, with the curious eyes I usually reserve for foreign countries, took another look at this long-neglected treasure trove of food and old houses: Tainan.Eh-heh! All those everyday sights I had long taken for granted suddenly became fresh and fascinating attractions, simply because I had changed my frame of mind.
On the first day, I took an overnight bus south. After sleeping all the way, I woke at dawn to find myself already in downtown Tainan, with one complete day ahead of me to wander around.
Most of central Tainan’s major sights are within walking distance. With no real sightseeing plan, I simply strolled leisurely through old streets and alleyways, sweeping Tainan delicacies into my stomach one shop at a time. Finally, I took a city bus to an old-house guesthouse in Anping.It turns out you can travel around Tainan perfectly well on foot and by public transport—all while staying completely true to the backpacker spirit!
Let’s add a little Taiwanese flavour to this blog otherwise packed with foreign destinations. And while we’re at it, let this wanderer who has been away from home for six months relive the trip through this one-day walking map of central Tainan. (The more I write, the hungrier I get. Is it time to book a flight back to Taiwan…?)
Three Days and Two Nights in Tainan — Day 1: Central Tainan
Overnight bus from Taipei to Tainan > Tainan Park > Yamu Liao Morning Market > Kaiji Tianhou Temple > Confucius Temple > Food around Chihkan Tower (Xiaonan Rice Cake, Yifeng Achuan Winter Melon Tea, Songcun Smoked Braised Foods) > Shennong Street > Lao Zheng Beef Noodles > Return to Tainan Park and take a city bus to Anping > Stay at an old-house guesthouse in Anping — Dabing’s Home
Getting from Taipei to Tainan
I took a Ubus coach departing Taipei Main Station at 1:30 AM and arriving in downtown Tainan at 6 AM. The promotional fare for this overnight service was NT$220, and the drop-off point in central Tainan was near Tainan Railway Station.
If, like me, you can fall asleep almost anywhere the moment you close your eyes, thentravelling overnight is an excellent way to save both time and money.Whether it’s a late-night flight, overnight bus, or train, opening your eyes after a good sleep feels like teleporting straight to your destination. You don’t waste precious daylight sitting in transit, you get a complete day to explore, and tickets at these hours are usually discounted too.
► Ubus Ticket Information
Timetables, fares, and reservations:www.ubus.com.tw
Taipei boarding point: No. 209, Section 1, Civic Boulevard, Datong District, Taipei City (Taipei Bus Station)
Tainan drop-off point: No. 73, Section 2, Beimen Road, North District, Tainan City
[ Arriving in Tainan bright and early means you can begin a full day of travelling. Watching the city wake up and the streets gradually grow busier is fascinating too. ]
Tainan Park
Leaving the bus station, I began my leisurely walking tour of Tainan and soon wandered into the charmingly historic Tainan Park. This park is older than either of my parents,having been built during the Japanese colonial period.This patch of greenery near Tainan Railway Station strikes a balance between the bustle of a major transport hub and peaceful tranquillity.
Parks, like hotels, can apparently be rated by stars. Green space is the basic amenity; fun play equipment earns another star. Hotels need swimming pools, while parks need ponds.Add together Tainan Park’s enormous Yan Pond, its wonderfully winding bridge, and Nianci Pavilion, and you’ve definitely got a four-star establishment in the world of parks.。
[ The park isn’t crowded in the early morning, and sitting beside the pond doing absolutely nothing is wonderfully relaxing. ]
Yet walking through the park at the crack of dawn didn’t feel lonely or cold at all. The grandpas and grandmas exercising were bursting with energy. It made this committed night owl realise how long it had been since I’d entered a park at six in the morning, or heard the rhythmic clapping of morning exercises and that old-school national calisthenics routine. Overseas, you usually only see runners and cyclists in parks.Such a diverse range of morning exercise styles must be quite a distinctive sight in Asian countries!
[ Grandpas and grandmas who wake up early to exercise never go bad. ]
[ There are even vendors in the park this early. You can finish exercising and immediately pick up breakfast, or save yourself a trip to the market and buy all your vegetables here. ]
► Tainan Park Information
Address: Between Gongyuan South Road and Beimen Road, Gongyuan Village, North District, Tainan City
Yan Pond is about a 5-minute walk from the Ubus station.
Yamu Liao Morning Market
When travelling abroad, I love observing local food and everyday culture through markets and supermarkets. Taiwan’s traditional markets actually offer an equally authentic glimpse into local life.I once tried imagining myself as a foreigner entering a Taiwanese market for the first time. The vendors’ creative sales pitches, live butchering displays, and scooters shuffling through the market on foot power—though in Tainan they seem to prefer twisting the throttle—made me want to pull out my camera and photograph everything. So I typed “traditional market” into Google Maps. Sure enough, Brother Google is always dependable and ready to grant your every wish, and that was how I ended up at Yamu Liao Morning Market.
[ It’s basically a night market in daytime. In Taipei’s traditional markets, bicycles and scooters shuffle along using their riders’ feet; in Tainan, people just ride scooters through as if the market were a proper road! ]
Yamu Liao Morning Market has an indoor fresh-food section selling chicken, duck, fish, and meat, plus an outdoor section devoted to everyday goods. AndTaiwanese traditional markets are simply the best in the world: they sell everything under the sun, including nappies.As a traveller only passing through, I could do nothing but gaze longingly at the fresh produce and its lower-than-Taipei prices without actually buying any. Yet I unexpectedly found some distinctly Taiwanese little products to give as souvenirs on my upcoming journey.
► Yamu Liao Market Information
Address: Lane 34, Yumin Street, West Central District, Tainan City (open-air street market)
No. 140, Chenggong Road, North District, Tainan City (indoor fresh-food section, also home to Songcun Smoked Foods)
About a 10-minute walk from Tainan Park
[ Everything in the fresh-food section made me want to take it homefor Mumto cook. You can buy Songcun Smoked Foods here too! ]
Kaiji Tianhou Temple, Hidden Behind Chihkan Tower
While searching Google Maps for my next stop, I was drawn to a landmark containing the two magnificently grand words “Tianhou” and “Temple.” For that thoroughly superficial reason, Iluckily stumbled upon the earliest Mazu temple in Taiwan’s former prefectural capital. Otherwise, I might truly have missed this historically important monument hidden among residential alleyways.。
[ Taiwan’s complete freedom of religion and its temples with genuine soul are extraordinarily precious assets within Chinese culture. ]
[ Stone tablets carved with tortoises and dragons record the history of Taiwan’s founding ancestral temple and the former Mazu Temple of Taiwan. ]
I have to say,although religion is a tradition that modern people classify as unscientific, it remains one of the most culturally influential forces of all.Whenever I enter a church overseas, its solemn atmosphere unconsciously slows my steps, while beautiful stained glass and carvings capture my gaze. Sometimes I forget that our own religious temples also preserve the craftsmanship of earlier eras.Inside Kaiji Tianhou Temple, I encountered a form of religious art that belongs to us. The carvings, murals, and elaborate ornaments climbing across the upturned eaves were so intricate that they deserved a long, appreciative pause.The more cultures I encounter overseas, the more I want to treasure the traditional culture surrounding us in Taiwan.
[ The carvings on the palanquin are astonishingly intricate—absolutely no corners were cut. ]
[ Religion offers some of the finest displays of traditional craftsmanship. ]
► Kaiji Tianhou Temple (Little Mazu Temple) Information
Address: No. 12, Ziqiang Street, North District, Tainan City
About a 5-minute walk from Yamu Liao Market
Chihkan Tower and Its Wealth of Delicious Food
I passed Chihkan Tower three times without entering, yet entered three different food shops. My stomach was stuffed—exactly how many stomachs are you supposed to bring to Tainan?! (My current life goal is to become a cow. Just kidding.) I know there is far more delicious food around Chihkan Tower, but tasty voices from farther away were already calling my name. For now, I squeezed only these three local recommendations into my stomach.
[ Chihkan Tower wasn’t open yet in the morning, so I could only admire it from afar. ]
First Stop in My Stomach: Xiaonan Rice Cake
Xiaonan Rice Cake has previously been selected as a state-banquet dish. Its Chihkan Tower location is a small branch, while the main shop near National University of Tainan in the city’s East District is said to be even livelier. Before I had even sat down, I saw a sign boasting the names of two former presidents. But they weren’t exactly food critics, so the only reliable way to know whether it was good was to taste it myself.
A NT$40 serving of rice cake came covered in fish floss, braised minced pork, peanuts, and cucumber. The rice was neither sticky nor greasy, and the savoury braising sauce made it dangerously moreish. Even a fussy customer like me, who normally avoids glutinous-rice dishes because all that stickiness makes me feel as though my stomach will glue itself together, finished every bite!
► Xiaonan Rice Cake (Minzu Branch) Information
Address: No. 242, Section 2, Minzu Road, Tainan City
About a 5-minute walk from Kaiji Tianhou Temple
Second Stop in My Stomach: Yifeng Achuan Winter Melon Tea
After eating, a drink to sip while walking was just right. Although Yifeng Achuan Winter Melon Tea has almost become somewhere only tourists visit, winter melon tea has always been one of my favourites, and toppings make it even more satisfying. (They also occupy a considerable amount of stomach space, though, so please consider carefully.) As a sugar-loving ant in human form, I can tolerate a very generous level of sweetness in this fragrant winter melon tea.
► Yifeng Achuan Winter Melon Tea Information
Address: No. 216, Section 2, Yongfu Road, Tainan City
A 2-minute walk from Xiaonan Rice Cake
Opening hours: 9 AM–10 PM
Winter melon chunks are limited each day and usually sell out in the morning.
[ Winter Melon loves drinking winter melon tea. (For some reason, the tears have started flowing.) ]
Third Stop in My Stomach: Songcun Smoked Braised Foods
The shop was clean, and every item had already been divided into individual packages. We visited at around four on a weekday afternoon, yet many spaces on the shelves were already empty, which shows just how popular it is. Besides the signature duck wings, the braised eggs and juicy king oyster mushrooms were outstanding! (Thumbs up.)
► Songcun Smoked Braised Foods Information
Address: No. 319, Section 2, Minzu Road, West Central District, Tainan City (Chihkan branch)
Opening hours: 11 AM–9 PM
[ This became our late-night snack. So, O Divine Cow, why exactly can’t our stomachs hold more…? ]
Taiwan’s First Academy: Tainan Confucius Temple
Tainan Confucius Temple opens at 8:30 AM, making it an excellent destination for my one-day transformation into a morning person.
It was Taiwan’s first Confucius temple.As I recall, it was one of those obligatory historic sights whenever my family visited Tainan during my childhood. (Exactly how much guidance from Confucius did I need?) Today, the neighbourhood around the temple—and indeed central Tainan as a whole—is seeing the rise of areas refreshed with locally inspired designer goods, cafés on old streets, and guesthouses in historic houses. They draw young people to this ancient capital of Tainan. (I’m young too. Hair flip.) Perhaps visitors now turn their attention towards Fuzhong Street, merely brushing past the Confucius Temple without lingering. Yet it is precisely the presence of these historic monuments that allows Tainan to retain its charmingly antique character.
[ After all these years, I finally no longer need Confucius’s protection—at least for the moment. This time, I could enter without the childhood misery of having to visit someone else’s school during a holiday, and finally sit down to enjoy the tranquillity of Taiwan’s First Academy in its simple, historic surroundings. ]
► Tainan Confucius Temple Information
Address: No. 2, Nanmen Road, West Central District, Tainan City
Opening hours: 8:30 AM–5:30 PM (hours vary slightly between courtyards)
[ Fuzhong Street beside Tainan Confucius Temple, one of Tainan’s old streets where past and present mingle. ]
Shennong Street
Before visiting Tainan, the change I saw people sharing most often was the arrival of many relaxing places along the old streets—cafés, little design shops, guesthouses, and the like—and they all looked remarkably stylish.
One prime example of an old street given new life is Shennong Street, Tainan’s best-preserved historic street. It is now home to quite a few cafés and bars, with an excellent atmosphere that makes it perfect for spending an entire afternoon.My stomach was already too full to fit anything else, so I had to sit out that particular round. Still, browsing the little shops selling designer goods kept me happily occupied among the old houses for quite some time.
[ The entrance to Shennong Street is so spectacularly retro, it’s practically divine. ]
The walls of old houses along nearby Hai’an Road have also become canvases, with elaborate murals making these ageing homes look young again.
► Shennong Street and Hai’an Road Information
Address: Well… Shennong Street and Hai’an Road. (Am I padding the article now?)
[ Shennong Street has several small designer boutiques where you can find products with a distinctly Taiwanese character. ]
Lao Zheng Beef Noodles
I saved my final meal out that day for Lao Zheng. Wanting to sample Tainan’s excellent beef, I decided to begin with beef noodles. Lao Zheng’s beef was braised until beautifully tender, and the broth wasn’t greasy. If my stomach hadn’t already been nearly full, finishing a large bowl by myself would have been no problem at all!
The shop is fairly spacious, and although we visited at the awkward hour of nearly five on a weekday afternoon, there were still quite a few occupied tables. You can imagine how busy it must become at mealtimes and on weekends.
► Lao Zheng Beef Noodles Information
Address: No. 221, Section 3, Jinhua Road, West Central District, Tainan City
Opening hours: 12:00 PM–9:00 PM
[ The shop’s interior has a wonderfully old-fashioned design. ]
Anping Old-House Guesthouse — Tainan Dabing’s Home
That evening, we stayed at Dabing’s Home in Anping, which is run by another friend from my Australian working-holiday days.A traveller herself, she chose to run a guesthouse where visitors could rest properly, allowing her to meet more travellers and hear more stories from around the world.
Fromcentral Tainan, the No. 2 city bus takes about 45 minutes to reach Dabing’s Home in Anping. It is right beside Anping Tree House.The guesthouse is close to the bus stop and easy to reach, while also putting us in position for a full day exploring Anping the next morning. This meant we wouldn’t waste precious daylight travelling, could get more rest, and could set out at a relaxed pace the following day.
[ This old house was originally a bakery, and it still makes Taiwanese pastries such as pineapple cakes. Even the exterior is adorable and welcoming. ]
Dabing’s Home was converted from an old house, and I especially loved the living room, which completely preserves the original high ceiling and old roof beams.The large round table is perfect for a group to sit around chatting and eating—yes, still more eating. The room is so relaxing that you immediately want to melt into a useless puddle. The shared areas are decorated in a distinctly old-house style, while the rooms have newer interiors and are particularly clean and comfortable.
[ My favourite space was the living room, which had clearly been decorated with tremendous care. The wooden screen is an antique too, once again showcasing Taiwan’s carving artistry. ]
[ There is also a small courtyard. Apparently, the owner has always enjoyed collecting antiques and decorating spaces. In every corner, you can see the care taken to give travellers a comfortable place to rest. ]
► Guesthouse — Tainan Dabing’s Home Information
Address: No. 2, Alley 11, Lane 196, Anbei Road, Anping District, Tainan City
Public transport: Take the No. 2 city bus from Tainan Park. Fare: NT$18, paid on board.
Reservations by phone: 0978 826 833
Rates: Hostel-style rooms, double rooms, and shared rooms for larger groups are available. See the booking site for prices.
Website:https://www.facebook.com/dabinghome
Booking site:https://www.agoda.com/zh-tw/dabing-home/hotel/tainan-tw.html
[ A clean, comfortable blend of rustic old-house charm and modern business-hotel style. ]
[ Several room types are available, each with its own distinctive character. ]
I still remember a German friend who was studying in Taiwan telling me a year earlier that he had travelled alone to Tainan for the weekend. I was astonished and asked, “How did you get there? After taking the bus, you didn’t rent a scooter? You walked? Weren’t all the sights really far apart?” I had clearly become a Taiwanese bumpkin who knew even less about her own country than a foreigner did. Only after walking around for myself did I discover how convenient travelling in Tainan has become. You can stroll slowly or take a city bus, and none of the sights are far apart. Walking also helps digest everything you eat, preparing you to fight several more rounds.
Tainan is a charming, refined place that shamelessly bribes you with delicious food. It also keeps the cultural character of this ancient capital alive in ways that appeal more closely to modern tastes, making you want to return again and again. Except… I was nearly frightened to death by Tainan’s traffic…
