San’in, Japan

As someone who did not learn to balance on a two-wheeled vehicle until I was 22, cycling is not my usual way of getting around—especially when travelling.

This autumn, I cycled across Shimane and Tottori in Japan's San'in region. Visiting these two understated prefectures in person revealed historic sites, local stories, faith, and iconic specialties with a character all their own. To me, San'in felt like a treasure chest not yet flooded by crowds, and I wanted to keep digging. Here's an introduction to the charming region I first discovered over five days and four nights, with a flexible bike-and-train itinerary to use as inspiration.

In mid-September this year, I arrived in Japan's Sanin region—Shimane and Tottori Prefectures—traveling by bike…